West to east along the river, from Muscadet at the Atlantic edge to Sauvignon Blanc at Sancerre, with Chenin Blanc carrying the middle.
We open the Loire at its western edge, in the Pays Nantais, with four Muscadets that have little to do with the thin, forgettable bottles the name usually brings to mind. Three communal crus and a single vineyard bottling, from two producers who take Melon de Bourgogne seriously.
From Muscadet we move east into Anjou, where Chenin Blanc turns serious. Three dry Savennières, including both of its named crus, then a glass of Bonnezeaux to end on something sweet.
Saumur in three registers: a traditional-method sparkling, a Crémant blanc de blancs, and two vintages of Cabernet Franc from Saumur-Champigny three years apart.
Vouvray and Montlouis face each other across the river and both work Chenin Blanc through every register it has: dry, off-dry and sweet. Four wines from four producers who take that range seriously.
We open with a sparkling Vouvray, then move into Cabernet Franc country: Chinon, Bourgueil and Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil, three neighbouring villages on different gravels.
We close the Loire where Sauvignon Blanc settled in for good: Pouilly-Fumé and Sancerre, facing each other across the river. A Dagueneau, and two vintages of Sancerre six years apart to see what age does to the grape.